Discussion:
Discriminator tap question
Bigjed
2013-03-05 16:53:18 UTC
Permalink
When installing a tap,is it necessary or even advisable to put a resistor in series with the wire from the tap point? Also can a single wire be used or should it be shielded (Co-axial)?Cheers guys.
Don
2013-03-05 22:08:52 UTC
Permalink
Usually it is advisable to use a small value ceramic cap like 0.01 uf to
block DC - no resistor needed - that would drop the signal some.

Doesn't hurt to use coax like RG-174 but not really needed. Depends on
how much you want to put into a project labor wise. Also I always think
about resale value - like putting holes for switches on a front panel.

Don KPC6NDB
Upland, CA
34.10 -117.63 1250ft
R-75 w/250Hz 2x R-71A w/250Hz R-70
Perseus SDR-IQ FUNcube Dongle Pro+
FRG-100B SR-AF & LPF DSP599zx
MFJ-784B HD-1418 AF-1 MSB-1
PA0RDT Mini-Whip x2 @ 25ft
RYO Active Antenna @ 25ft
LFL1010 ALA100L x2
Post by Bigjed
When installing a tap,is it necessary or even advisable to put a
resistor in series with the wire from the tap point? Also can a single
wire be used or should it be shielded (Co-axial)?Cheers guys.
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Bigjed
2013-03-05 22:27:29 UTC
Permalink
Post by Don
Usually it is advisable to use a small value ceramic cap like 0.01 uf to
block DC - no resistor needed - that would drop the signal some.
Doesn't hurt to use coax like RG-174 but not really needed. Depends on
how much you want to put into a project labor wise. Also I always think
about resale value - like putting holes for switches on a front panel.
Don KPC6NDB
Upland, CA
34.10 -117.63 1250ft
R-75 w/250Hz 2x R-71A w/250Hz R-70
Perseus SDR-IQ FUNcube Dongle Pro+
FRG-100B SR-AF & LPF DSP599zx
MFJ-784B HD-1418 AF-1 MSB-1
LFL1010 ALA100L x2
Thanx Don.I've seen a couple of conflicting articles re this.Some recommend the resistor with coax,some just a wire from the tapping point straight to a phono socket on the rear of the radio.I've not seen the ceramic cap mentioned yet tho'.is that just connected in series,like the resistor would be?
Don
2013-03-05 23:12:34 UTC
Permalink
Yes, in series. You want to protect the radio and what ever you are
connecting to it is why - pretty standard AFAIK.

Don KPC6NDB
Upland, CA
34.10 -117.63 1250ft
R-75 w/250Hz 2x R-71A w/250Hz R-70
Perseus SDR-IQ FUNcube Dongle Pro+
FRG-100B SR-AF & LPF DSP599zx
MFJ-784B HD-1418 AF-1 MSB-1
PA0RDT Mini-Whip x2 @ 25ft
RYO Active Antenna @ 25ft
LFL1010 ALA100L x2
Post by Don
Post by Don
Usually it is advisable to use a small value ceramic cap like 0.01 uf to
block DC - no resistor needed - that would drop the signal some.
Doesn't hurt to use coax like RG-174 but not really needed. Depends on
how much you want to put into a project labor wise. Also I always think
about resale value - like putting holes for switches on a front panel.
Don KPC6NDB
Upland, CA
34.10 -117.63 1250ft
R-75 w/250Hz 2x R-71A w/250Hz R-70
Perseus SDR-IQ FUNcube Dongle Pro+
FRG-100B SR-AF & LPF DSP599zx
MFJ-784B HD-1418 AF-1 MSB-1
LFL1010 ALA100L x2
Thanx Don.I've seen a couple of conflicting articles re this.Some
recommend the resistor with coax,some just a wire from the tapping point
straight to a phono socket on the rear of the radio.I've not seen the
ceramic cap mentioned yet tho'.is that just connected in series,like the
resistor would be?
------------------------------------

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OldOne
2013-03-05 23:19:58 UTC
Permalink
I normally use a 1K resistor as an isolator incase some one plugs a 32 ohm
earpiece into the socket and almost shorts the discriminator point to ground.

Also do not use a 0.01 uf cap as DC blocking if you want a clean data waveform
out as it will phase distort the low frequency squarewaves output for data
decoding. If you must block the DC use a least a 1.0 uf 50v monolithic cap
when feeding into a 10k load of the sound card input.
Post by Don
Post by Don
Usually it is advisable to use a small value ceramic cap like 0.01 uf to
block DC - no resistor needed - that would drop the signal some.
Doesn't hurt to use coax like RG-174 but not really needed. Depends on
how much you want to put into a project labor wise. Also I always think
about resale value - like putting holes for switches on a front panel.
Thanx Don.I've seen a couple of conflicting articles re this.Some recommend the resistor with coax,some just a wire from the tapping point straight to a phono socket on the rear of the radio.I've not seen the ceramic cap mentioned yet tho'.is that just connected in series,like the resistor would be?
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Bigjed
2013-03-07 09:37:58 UTC
Permalink
OK.A bit of a conflict here then.Question:Would I get away with using nothing at all?Just a wire from the tapping point to a phono socket mounted at the rear of the radio.No danger of headphones being plugged into that.I intend to use the socket for the purpose of decoding pager signals and the like and want a nice clean signal.

Gerry.
Post by OldOne
I normally use a 1K resistor as an isolator incase some one plugs a 32 ohm
earpiece into the socket and almost shorts the discriminator point to ground.
Also do not use a 0.01 uf cap as DC blocking if you want a clean data waveform
out as it will phase distort the low frequency squarewaves output for data
decoding. If you must block the DC use a least a 1.0 uf 50v monolithic cap
when feeding into a 10k load of the sound card input.
Post by Don
Post by Don
Usually it is advisable to use a small value ceramic cap like 0.01 uf to
block DC - no resistor needed - that would drop the signal some.
Doesn't hurt to use coax like RG-174 but not really needed. Depends on
how much you want to put into a project labor wise. Also I always think
about resale value - like putting holes for switches on a front panel.
Thanx Don.I've seen a couple of conflicting articles re this.Some recommend the resistor with coax,some just a wire from the tapping point straight to a phono socket on the rear of the radio.I've not seen the ceramic cap mentioned yet tho'.is that just connected in series,like the resistor would be?
------------------------------------
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Don
2013-03-07 17:26:50 UTC
Permalink
Well, use a bigger cap then. Personally, I would never run audio
straight to a PC/LT. You never know what will happen. I guess you could
try it and see what happens. I guess replacing a sound card is cheaper
than replacing a motherboard or a PC/LT. Especially if you are using the
onboard sound chip. LoL I always use a 1:1 audio transformer to prevent
ground loops and DC as well. At times I have had to add a 5k oHm pot to
adjust the level - more convenient to quickly turn a knob than messing
with PC/LT sound mixer sliders and a mouse.

BTW, are you using POSAG or something like that? I messed with that kind
of stuff ~15 years or so ago. Boring after a few minutes. Yeah, you'll
see lots of phone #'s and very short messages. Don't remember if it
legal or not but still boring, at least to me anyway. Kinda like the 49
mHz baby monitors and 900 mHz wireless phones. Listening to the
PD/FD/Mil and some local VHF is a lot more interesting at least to me.

Don KPC6NDB
Upland, CA
34.10 -117.63 1250ft
R-75 w/250Hz 2x R-71A w/250Hz R-70
Perseus SDR-IQ FUNcube Dongle Pro+
FRG-100B SR-AF & LPF DSP599zx
MFJ-784B HD-1418 AF-1 MSB-1
PA0RDT Mini-Whip x2 @ 25ft
RYO Active Antenna @ 25ft
LFL1010 ALA100L x2
Post by Bigjed
OK.A bit of a conflict here then.Question:Would I get away with using
nothing at all?Just a wire from the tapping point to a phono socket
mounted at the rear of the radio.No danger of headphones being plugged
into that.I intend to use the socket for the purpose of decoding pager
signals and the like and want a nice clean signal.
Gerry.
Post by OldOne
I normally use a 1K resistor as an isolator incase some one plugs a
32 ohm
Post by OldOne
earpiece into the socket and almost shorts the discriminator point to
ground.
Post by OldOne
Also do not use a 0.01 uf cap as DC blocking if you want a clean data
waveform
Post by OldOne
out as it will phase distort the low frequency squarewaves output for
data
Post by OldOne
decoding. If you must block the DC use a least a 1.0 uf 50v
monolithic cap
Post by OldOne
when feeding into a 10k load of the sound card input.
Post by Don
Post by Don
Usually it is advisable to use a small value ceramic cap like 0.01
uf to
Post by OldOne
Post by Don
Post by Don
block DC - no resistor needed - that would drop the signal some.
Doesn't hurt to use coax like RG-174 but not really needed. Depends on
how much you want to put into a project labor wise. Also I always
think
Post by OldOne
Post by Don
Post by Don
about resale value - like putting holes for switches on a front panel.
Thanx Don.I've seen a couple of conflicting articles re this.Some
recommend the resistor with coax,some just a wire from the tapping point
straight to a phono socket on the rear of the radio.I've not seen the
ceramic cap mentioned yet tho'.is that just connected in series,like the
resistor would be?
Post by OldOne
Post by Don
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Post by OldOne
Post by Don
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Yahoo! Groups Links
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If you have come here to find out about the Uniden BC-780 you have come to the right place! In fact the discussion of the BC-780 is the only acceptable topic on this list. Please. I hope this is clear to all group members.
OldOne
2013-03-07 10:11:27 UTC
Permalink
As I said,
the resistor is protecting the scanner from external damage due to loading down
and capacitive isolation. The cap is to isolate DC getting into other
external devices or external voltages getting in and upsetting the discriminator
bias.

If you are happy to have no protection then a bit of wire to the socket is all
that is needed from the discriminator tap point.

Since I experiment with data decoders inc 2 and 3 level data slices on
prototyping boards I prefer to protect my scanner at all costs while on the work
bench as a data source.

Cheers,
OldOne.
Post by Bigjed
OK.A bit of a conflict here then.Question:Would I get away with using nothing at all?Just a wire from the tapping point to a phono socket mounted at the rear of the radio.No danger of headphones being plugged into that.I intend to use the socket for the purpose of decoding pager signals and the like and want a nice clean signal.
Gerry.
Post by OldOne
I normally use a 1K resistor as an isolator incase some one plugs a 32 ohm
earpiece into the socket and almost shorts the discriminator point to ground.
Also do not use a 0.01 uf cap as DC blocking if you want a clean data waveform
out as it will phase distort the low frequency squarewaves output for data
decoding. If you must block the DC use a least a 1.0 uf 50v monolithic cap
when feeding into a 10k load of the sound card input.
Post by Don
Usually it is advisable to use a small value ceramic cap like 0.01 uf to
block DC - no resistor needed - that would drop the signal some.
Doesn't hurt to use coax like RG-174 but not really needed. Depends on
how much you want to put into a project labor wise. Also I always think
about resale value - like putting holes for switches on a front panel.
Thanx Don.I've seen a couple of conflicting articles re this.Some recommend the resistor with coax,some just a wire from the tapping point straight to a phono socket on the rear of the radio.I've not seen the ceramic cap mentioned yet tho'.is that just connected in series,like the resistor would be?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

OldOne
2013-03-06 06:22:54 UTC
Permalink
I normally use a 1K resistor as an isolator incase some one plugs a 32 ohm
earpiece into the socket and almost shorts the discriminator point to ground.

Also do not use a 0.01 uf cap as DC blocking if you want a clean data waveform
out as it will phase distort the low frequency squarewaves output for data
decoding. If you must block the DC use a least a 1.0 uf 50v monolithic cap
when feeding into a 10k load of the sound card input.
Post by Don
Usually it is advisable to use a small value ceramic cap like 0.01 uf to
block DC - no resistor needed - that would drop the signal some.
Doesn't hurt to use coax like RG-174 but not really needed. Depends on
how much you want to put into a project labor wise. Also I always think
about resale value - like putting holes for switches on a front panel.
Thanx Don.I've seen a couple of conflicting articles re this.Some recommend the resistor with coax,some just a wire from the tapping point straight to a phono socket on the rear of the radio.I've not seen the ceramic cap mentioned yet tho'.is that just connected in series,like the resistor would be?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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